On bustling Crown Street in Sydney, Foreign Return is an eclectic Indian restaurant with a story to tell.

The name Foreign Return is a term of endearment in India, often used for those who leave their homeland only to return later. Fittingly, owners Gaurang Gahoi (aka “gG”), Kunal, and Javed — themselves often called “foreign returns” when visiting family — have infused this concept into the very essence of the restaurant.

At the helm of the kitchen, Head Chef Tanvi curates a menu that goes beyond the expected, proving that Indian cuisine is much more than just curries. Foreign Return is dedicated to unearthing rare, age-old Indian recipes and reimagining them with a contemporary twist. With a focus on regional specialties, each dish comes with a story, reflecting the depth and diversity of Indian culinary traditions. The menu evolves three times a year, ensuring there’s always something new to discover while staying true to its rich heritage.

Guided by Kunal, we started with Raj Kachori a street-food dish from Delhi. The word ‘raj’ translates to royal – this dish was known for being served in palaces across Rajasthan. Flavoursome and delicate, the crispy semolina ball is packed with chickpea, spiced yoghurt, sev and chutneys. It was a fun way to start the meal as the giant ball is designed to be smashed!

Named after Bombay’s Koliwada (the fishermen’s district of Mumbai), our favourite dish was the Prawn Koliwada – crunchy fried prawns coated in a delicate batter and cooked till golden.

Of course, we couldn’t resist ordering from the Lost Recipes section of the menu — featuring dishes passed down through generations but rarely seen in restaurants. The Til Diya Murgi is a dish that takes you deep into Assam’s rich culinary heritage. Sesame, a staple in Assamese celebrations for over 5,500 years, plays a starring role here. Tender chicken thigh is coated in a fragrant blend of black sesame and warming spices, creating a dish that’s both bold and deeply rooted in tradition. It’s perfect with a side of chewy flatbread naan cooked in a traditional tandoor oven, where the dough is stuck directly on the walls of the tandoor and the heat is much higher than a regular oven – over 370 degrees celsius. And who doesn’t love bread and cheese? So order the Paneer Tikka – cubes of house spiced Turkish-inspired cottage cheese served with a refreshing mint chutney.

The same attention to detail extends to the drinks list, where eight expertly crafted cocktails are designed to transport you straight to India. The spice-infused creations include the Kashmiri Saffron Fennel Old Fashioned — a rich, aromatic blend of Starward Two-Fold Whisky, saffron, house-made fennel & cardamom syrup, and Angostura orange bitters. Bold yet beautifully balanced, it’s a true standout. Then there’s the Poona Junction, a red wine milk-washed cocktail that intrigued me from the start. Made with fig gin, goat’s cheese, honey, and the signature red wine infusion, it was unlike anything I’d ever tasted — unexpected and delicious. I’ll be ordering it again!

Alternatively, the wine list is a synergy of old and new, celebrating climatically diverse and geologically complex regions in Australia and around the world. Thoughtfully curated, it features selections crafted using organic, biodynamic, and natural winemaking practices. Choose from aromatic and textured whites to bright, crunchy, and savoury reds, as well as lusciously syrupy dessert wines. For those opting for a non-alcoholic experience, the ‘Zero Alcohol’ menu offers a refreshing selection of lassis, artisanal sodas, crafted mocktails, and alcohol-free beers.

Spread across two floors, the decor is a blend of retro charm and modern Indian craftsmanship. Golden hues and plush navy seating set a luxurious yet inviting tone, while striking graphic interpretations of Indian landmarks add a contemporary edge.

On the ground floor, a floor-to-ceiling mural of the Taj Mahal commands attention. Overhead, custom pendant lights, inspired by traditional fisherman’s nets, cast a warm glow — subtly hinting at the restaurant’s coastal culinary influences. Lining the shelves are dabbas — classic three-tier lunch boxes — that are utilsed in the restaurant for lunch.

Every corner is a treasure trove of artifacts from another era, transporting guests to a bygone India. Vintage Bollywood memorabilia, vintage technology, and evocative black-and-white photographs offer a rich visual narrative. The back bar, with its intricate pigeonhole design, pays homage to the restaurant’s mascot — the Indian Rock Pigeon.

Foreign Return is the perfect spot for a pre-show feast. From rare, time-honored recipes to bold, spice-laced cocktails, every element is carefully curated and offers a dining adventure that is as vibrant and diverse as India itself.

Foreign Return is a brisk 5 minute walk from Belvoir St Theatre, located on 527 Crown Street, Surry Hills, Sydney.

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