In the heart of Lane Cove, Sydney, Lillah Kitchen is a thoughtful Middle Eastern restaurant, where each dish is deeply considered before earning its place on the menu.

Created to resemble an open courtyard, the large restaurant seats one hundred. There are large tables for big groups, banquettes and cosy leather booths for two. The exposed brick and tears along the walls echo pain and resilience, while the open archways and abundance of natural light, streaming through the skylight reflect hope.

Towards the back of the restaurant, the bustling open kitchen provides a glimpse into the action. The menu extends well beyond Middle Eastern cuisine, drawing on Turkish, Greek, Israeli, Lebanese, Egyptian, Moroccan and Italian influences.

Owner Gaurav, who took over Lillah in 2020, is often asked why he chose to open a Middle Eastern restaurant rather than an Indian one. Hailing from India, his answer is simple: he loves Middle Eastern food. The layering of flavours, boldness of spices, bright colours and vibrancy of the different palates drew him to the cuisine.

The extensive menu may seem overwhelming at first glance but Gaurav and his team are welcoming and happy to guide diners through the options. With small plates and large platters, Lillah’s menu is best experienced as a shared meal, allowing the table to sample a little of everything.

I can never go past an empanada so Lillah’s Sambousek was a must-order starter. The crispy pastry is filled with minced lamb, onion and spices. Best dipped in a little toum (garlic sauce). The dips are all made in-house, including eggplant roasted over the grill. Handmade falafel is crunchy on the outside and moist inside, revealing a green centre packed with parsley and herbs, served with charcoal tahini.

The Greek influence comes through in the sticky date lamb, slow-cooked for 12 hours and steamed in its own juices. Considered the anchor dish of the restaurant, it is served with a sauce of date and sumac molasses, creating a tangy, mouthwateringly delicious finish. It’s dishes like this that feel as though Lillah has been created to feed the soul.

For seafood lovers, you’ll want to order the Samak Mashwi. Full of flavour and a dishes of spice, the pan-seared, the Australian barramundi arrives with crispy skin, served with chermoula yoghurt and Turkish salsa.

Vegans and vegetarians are well catered for, with plenty of vegetable-led dishes and meat- and dairy-free options. Servings are generous, and the roasted carrots with spiced honey dressing are much more than just a side dish.

Unfortunately, we didn’t save room for dessert but I’ll certainly be returning for the Kanafeh shredded pastry with sweet cheese, sour cherries and crumbled halva.

The drinks menu has been given just as much thought, with Middle Eastern inspired signature cocktails such as the Marrakesh Martini, made with sumac-infused vodka and a dash of tequila, with strong aromas of orange blossom and citrus. My companion opted for the La La Lychee, which has been Lillah’s best-selling cocktail for seven years and it’s easy to see why. Made with vodka, lychee liqueur, Aperol and Chambord, it is sweet and refreshing.

Lillah’s beverage list also includes a range of non-alcoholic drinks, beers and ciders, along with a quality wine selection available by the glass or bottle. It’s an excellent opportunity to explore the wines of Lebanon with Château Ksara, Reserva Du Couvent, a spicy deep red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc.

This isn’t a restaurant that will rush diners out the door. For Gaurav, food is about taking time to share stories and connect. Lillah’s name means “Beautiful Night” in Arabic. Here it’s an opportunity to come together, linger and make new memories over delicious bites.

A 2-minute walk from Pottery Lane

Lillah Kitchen is located 128 Longueville Road, Lane Cove, Sydney

Open 12pm–3pm Thu–Sun; 5pm–10pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mondays.

To book visit Lillah Kitchen